What Tree, Where and How?

The value of trees in towns, villages and countryside has been known since earliest times, and throughout the world. Towns and cities everywhere bear testament to the value of trees. Plant a tree and you too can be involved in ensuring the continuation of Guildford’s green heritage. But remember, they are living things and like all other living things need tender loving care and attention if they are to survive. Hopefully the following guidance will give you all the information you need!

Where?

There is such a wide range of trees available to us that it is possible to select one to suit virtually any situation. If you can not plant on land of your own and wish to plant on land such as village greens or public open spaces, have a look at our Tree Sponsorship Scheme.

What type?

You must be careful to select a species that will give the desired effect and will grow in the existing and climatic conditions of the area. Before making your choice check the ultimate height and spread which the tree is likely to reach. If the area is small and there are buildings close by a smaller type should be considered, however if there is plenty of space around you can plant larger types. Examples of native trees for smaller areas are hazel (Corylus avellana), holly (Ilex aquifolium) and elder (Sambucus nigra). Examples of larger sized trees native to this area include beech (Fagus sylvatica), oak (Quercus robur) ash (Fraxinus excelsior). The Arboricultural Association produce some useful leaflets there contact details can be found on the Treelinks page.

What size?

Trees are available from nurseries in a large number of sizes. The smallest are transplants and whips which are 30 - 150 cm high, These are easy to move and grow quickly. They are ideal for planting a new area of woodland.

Next are feathered trees which have branches to ground level and have reached 1.5 - 2m. These trees can be grown in pots and have the advantage that the roots are not as disturbed as transplants. At the top end are standards having a clear stem of 1.5 - 2m and an overall height of 2.5m or more. These are good for creating immediate visual effect.

Buying a Tree

Always check that it is in good condition with a strong straight stem and a well balanced branch system.

When to plant?

Bare rooted or root balled trees with soil around the roots, should be planted in the period after their leaves have fallen in autumn but before the leaf buds begin to break in the spring. Therefore it is normally from October/November to March/April. Trees should not be planted if the soil is water logged or frozen.

Digging the Hole

In order to accommodate the roots properly the hole needs to be dug as large as the spread of the roots. Once the hole is dug the compacted soil around and under the hole needs to be broken up to improve drainage and aeration of the roots. Makes sure you dig it with square sides so the roots don’t wrap around the tree and strangle it.

Staking?

Small transplants can be planted without staking but larger trees over 1m high might need to be staked especially if it is windy. The stake should be driven firmly into the base of the hole before the tree is planted. Tying the tree to the stake helps keep the tree steady until the roots provide a firm anchorage. It is suggested that a short stake reaching about a third of a way up the stem, and a single purpose made tie is preferable. Fasten the tie close to the top of the stake to prevent chafing against the stem. The stake needs to be on the side of the prevailing wind and ties should be checked regularly. Both stake and tie should be removed after 2 to 3 years maximum.

Planting Procedure

1. Insert stake (if required)

2. Remove any wrapping or container from the tree.

3. Soak roots well before planting

4. Check depth of hole, the join (collar) between root and stem should be at finished soil level. An easy check for this is to lie your spade across the hole; the shaft should be at the same height as the root collar.

5. One person should hold tree upright while the other covers with soil.

6. Fill all parts of the hole and tread firmly with the heel of the foot, leaving the soil slightly proud of the surrounding ground.

7. Secure tree to stake if provided.

Maintenance

All trees benefit from a good water supply in the first year after planting, in dry summers this may mean watering at least once a week. Water should be applied slowly allowing it to sink into the soil. Weeds and grass compete fiercely with the tree for nutrients and moisture, therefore keep area around the tree weed free, without using strimmers which can quickly and easily kill trees. You may want to have a permanent woodchip area for the first three years about 0.5 meter radius should suffice. If the area where the tree is planted is accessible to rabbits or deer, damage can be avoided by using special guards or shelters.

Become a tree warden!

The National Grid Tree Warden Scheme is a national initiative to enable people to play an active role in conserving and enhancing their local trees and woods. The scheme was founded by the Tree Council and is co-ordinated by the Council in partnership with The National Grid Company, which has a well-established policy of community involvement and environmental care.

Tree Wardens are volunteers, appointed by parish councils or other community organisations, who gather information about their local trees, get involved in local tree matters and encourage local practical projects to do with trees and woods.

The contact for Surrey's Tree Warden scheme is:
Dave Symonds, Environment Department, Surrey County Council, Kingston-upon-Thames, Surrey KT1 2DT. Tel: 020 9541 9461. Fax: 020 8541 9447.

More about the scheme and how to become a tree warden at http://www.treecouncil.org.uk/